Taylors Falls: new route and a couple of comments

zontar Climbing Guidebook

A previously undescribed route in the Keyhole Area:

Mongoosed (5.8**)
If Cobra is too much for you, get Mongoosed. Shorter climbers may find this harder than 5.8. Start at the bottom of the gully between Cobra and the Double Cracks block (exactly where Julie is standing in the 2nd edition guidebook photo, p. 105 and below). Climb up a bit, using some holds on the Cobra face. Traverse left and pull over the roof (crux), then proceed to the top of the inside corner. An easier version (awkward 5.6) goes directly up the corner from the block above the tree.

BTW the next corner up the gully is short and guarded by loose rock at the bottom.

farris_keyhole

Other route comments:

Electric Stove Couch (Picnic Area) – definitely no 5.7 version of this route, at least 5.9.

Picnic Face (Picnic Area) – two starts, left and center. Above the roof, anything between the two cracks is on.

Other:

The tradition of crappy toprope anchors is alive and well at TF. Slinging loose blocks, using one carabiner, a single sling over the edge…  c’mon people!