Archive for the ‘Climbing Guidebook’ Category
Tracking numbers in hand–they are coming…
May 18th, 2012
Guidebooks are leaving the FalconGuides warehouse today (5-18) and are on the way to me and to retailers. I’ll get them next week sometime.
If you ordered from me be certain that your address on file with Paypal is correct. If you want it shipped to a different address, email the address in the header above.
If you want in on the first batch of books order now.
I’ll be out of town Thursday-Monday of Memorial weekend so no new orders will be processed on those days.
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Updated guidebook availability info
April 23rd, 2012
I just got word from the publisher that the revised guide will not be available until late May. I’m waiting just like you…
I’ll be talking about the new climbing guidebook at the Outdoor Adventure Expo on Saturday, April 28 at 11:45 AM in 106 Hansen Hall.
I’ll be talking about acclimatization to altitude at 9:15 on Saturday, April 28 in 105 Hansen Hall.
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When all else fails…
April 15th, 2012
One of my climbing partners told me that he recently read the Introduction in the first edition. Finally. Ten years after buying the book.
Most of us head straight for the ratings and skip over all of that unnecessary text that authors insist on including. We just want a number and a dotted line. And a gear list. And the number of bolts. And the beta on the crux…
This guide contains routes at many different cliffs, composed of different types of rock, with routes established in different styles and ethics. So the information included at the beginning of each section is vital to your safety and enjoyment. I’ve used a standard format and kept the text to a minimum– you can easily read these sections in a few minutes. So, in webspeak, RTFM!
Here’s an excerpt showing the layout of the intro section for each area. I’ll discuss some issues (e.g. ratings) in more detail in later posts. The text in the guide is in the right column, with boxes and shading added, and comments on the left. It’s low res on purpose and I spotted a typo in the final text!
Tags: guidebook, revision
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A sample page from the second edition
April 9th, 2012
Here’s a sample page from the new guide. Click the photo for a larger version. This sample is a bit blurry and much info is blocked out on purpose 
click for a full size, low resolution version
The two-column layout allows for many more small photos so a vast majority of the routes are in photos. The book is shorter than the first edition but has ~150 more climbs! However, the book might be heavier because of the higher weight glossy paper.
The nice paper allows for much better resolution in the photos. Either B&W or color would both look much better with this paper. I was always disappointed in the photo printing in the first edition.
In many photos there is a person for scale. Somebody suggested this a few years ago and it’s a great idea. I hope this will make locating the climbs easier.
The maps have been redrawn and use some color to make things more apparent. Some locator maps have been added to help locate climbs in areas that can’t be photographed well.
At sport areas I’ve included most of the top anchors and some of the protection bolts on the photos. This (and the scale person and the higher photo resolution) should help you find your route more easily.
Availability still appears to be early May. Preorder to get your copy sooner.
I’ll be talking about the book at the Outdoor Adventure Expo on Saturday, April 28 at 11:45 AM in 106 Hansen Hall.
I’ll be talking about acclimatization to altitude at 9:15 in 105 Hansen Hall. If you’re awake then.
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New guide coming in May
March 28th, 2012
It’s coming soon. The updated version will be available in early May at a list price of $30. You’ll get:
- Over 1000 routes and variations at 13 different areas
- Color photos on glossy paper
- Updated difficulty and quality ratings
- The latest access info
You can buy the book from me or from other local outlets.
I’ll be sharing some of the new features of the book on this blog over the next few weeks.
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I need your photos
May 5th, 2011
Please don't send your butt shots!
I need action photos for the upcoming MN&WI guidebook revision. Here are the guidelines
Deadline is June 1.
Also, if you’ve noticed any changes to climbs this spring (broken holds, etc.), you can submit that info until June 1. For example, Jump Start at Red Wing had a hold break last fall and now may be a bit harder. Send info to guide{At}mfarris.net.Deadline is June 1. I will not take ANY information from mountainproject.com. You must send me any info that you may have posted here. Read why here.
Tags: revision
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Hundreds of photos
April 26th, 2011
About 200 photos at Red Wing on Thursday, then 250+ at Devils Lake on Saturday and Sunday. The weather gods were kind, giving me clouds when needed and sun when needed. There were still some piles of fresh snow from the storm last week, and some trees and branches down as well.
While shooting telephotos from the top of the East Bluff Sunday I was surrounded by turkey vultures and this hawk as they were riding the thermals. The vultures were pestering the hawk by diving at it; unfortunately I couldn’t catch it with the camera.
Next weekend is Taylors Falls and maybe Red Wing again.
Hawk over Devils Lake
Tags: revision
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Why I won’t take guide information from another web site
April 22nd, 2011
Writing a climbing guidebook is serious business. Deadly serious. While there are opportunities for humor, I constantly remind myself that the lives of the users could be endangered if I make a mistake.
The rise of electronic social media has changed the way many people interact and how they think that others should interact with them. I was in on the social media thing from the beginning. For example, I followed rec.climbing early on, then quit reading it when the info-to-noise ratio got too low.
I’ve had many very good climbers who post online send me their suggestions. It isn’t possible for me to contact each of you directly, so I have to make impersonal pleas for info on these online forums.
Mike bouldering at Bhulebhule, Nepal
Why don’t I just harvest info from the climbing web sites? Here are some reasons:
*I can’t depend on the comments of anonymous people. Screen names like ‘rokluver69′ don’t instill any confidence in your comments. I have no idea how long you have climbed or where you have climbed.
*I don’t have time to wade through all of the junk that’s online. Those who talk the most generally have the least to offer. Or there are trolls/ flame wars/ etc. that waste everyone’s time.
*Online reports are often filed in the flush of victory (or in the throes of defeat). You finally completed a project; what are the chances you’ll downgrade it or call it a crappy route? A more sober, balanced assessment is usually only possible upon reflection.
*There are legal issues as well. If I found parts of my guide posted on a web site, the publisher would take legal action against the owner of the web site. If I take from a web site, the same could be done against me.
Also, if I was sued over the guidebook I need to show that I practiced due diligence in assembling the information that was published. Harvesting info of unknown quality from anonymous sources online clearly isn’t the best approach for accuracy.
So send me info if you have it, but if you don’t send it to me I can’t use it.
Tags: revision
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Devil’s Lake 4/16-17
April 18th, 2011
Sometimes Crack, Devil's Lake. Note the tree shadows.
A crazy weather weekend at the Lake. I drove down Saturday and arrived in Baraboo and was greeted by blowing snow. After lunch and a bit of driving around I put on the running gear and ran/hiked around to check photo angles. I was the only car in the parking lot.
Sunday dawned clear with a biting, cold wind. I walked around (in several layers of clothes) and took photos in the sunshine. After a midday break it warmed up. I ran into Eric Landmann (climbingcentral.com) who was training for Denali by doing laps up the bluff.
Got some more shots but messed up by using my neutral density gradient filter inappropriately a few times. The Phottix Plato wireless remote I bought from Ebay ($40) works great and is tons cheaper than the Nikon remote.
I need to go back when it’s cloudy. The tree shadows are my nemesis! Maybe next weekend if it doesn’t snow 
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Blue Mounds April 4
April 4th, 2011
Jon Cupka and I took photos and located routes at Blue Mounds on Saturday. After a cool start it was a great day–sunny in the morning, then clouds later. The clouds were important because the tree shadows make some sunny shots useless. While the sunny photos are prettier, the cloudy shots often have better contrast and reveal more detail on the cliffs.
It was very easy to get around, though there were still some snowdrifts in the gullies. We ran into Jasper and Pete Hunt (Mankato State) and climbers from South Dakota and Wyoming.
Blue Mounds, Everyday Buttress
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