Here’s a brief look back at my history with climbing guidebooks. It’s long– maybe too long! Minnesota Rock: Selected Climbs (1995) 220+ routes at Blue Mounds, Red Wing, Taylors Falls, Palisade Head, and Shovel Point. I got into the guidebook game indirectly. I was frustrated that the local guidebooks were out of print, I was frustrated that my job wasn’t …
The 2013 Everest ‘Fight’
In the spring of 2013 there was a well-publicized incident between Western climbers and Sherpas on the slopes of Mount Everest. Here are some links to the many new stories on this incident: Alan Arnette (and read the links inside) New Yorker piece Ed Douglas (with links) Rather than discuss the individuals involved and judge their actions, I want talk …
It’s fast and easy
The workout facility that I use has magazines lying around for those using bicycles etc. the beauty/fitness magazines plaster their covers with the same things every month–promises of great results quickly with little effort. I picked to cover at random to show you what I mean: Get it now! Do it fast! Guilt free! Not boring! Easy! These are the …
The Walmart book/DVD price war
I urge you to avoid supporting the Walmart-Amazon-Target price war over books and DVDs. You might save a couple of bucks, but authors lose, publishers lose, and other booksellers lose. Do you really want the big-retailers to control what you can read and watch? Allowing these large corporations to kill off competition is a step in that direction. Please support …
Farewell Charlie
Dr. Charles Houston died recently at the age of 96. I first started learning about high-altitude physiology from his book Going Higher. He was the godfather of high-altitude medicine and climbed in Alaska and Asia. My book wouldn’t have been possible without the research he conducted and inspired over the years. Read a fitting tribute by journalist Bill Moyers. Watch …
Farewell Mick
I just got word that Mick Parker passed away in Kathmandu just after I left. I met Mick in 2004 on Broad Peak and hiked out with his expedition. We’d had a few beers together since. My last night in Kathmandu saw several of us coming out of Sam’s Pub after a last drink. Mick was just coming in, but …
Two good books
Neil Heil’s ‘Dark Summit’ and Lincoln Hall’s ‘Dead Lucky’ both describe events on the northside of Everest in 2006. Hall’s book talks about his person experiences (surviving a night out high on the north ridge after developing cerebral edema) while Heil covers the entire tragic season (11 deaths I think). Also, famed Italian alpinist Ricardo Cassin died yesterday at the …